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| Dept.
Building Fundamentals
Is Wood Good?
Clarke Snell evaluates burning wood
as an eco-friendly heating option. |
It’s winter, so I’m thinking
a lot about wood. That’s because it’s a major strand
in my lifeline this time of year. I’m lucky enough to live
in a house that’s heated by a combination of direct sunlight
and wood collected basically from my back yard. In a world that
I’m increasingly unable to grasp, it’s always a centering,
empowering experience to warm myself with wood that I’ve
cut, split and hauled with my own hands.
A sensible question, though, is whether it’s environmentally
responsible to burn wood for heat. The preamble to an answer is
that a “green” approach to heating has to start with
a very well-insulated, weatherized building that maximizes the
heating potential of the sun through passive and active solar
design (see last month’s column for more information on
these topics). These strategies will greatly reduce the amount
of extra heat we’ll need in the building.
That said, there are two basic environmental issues to consider:
management of natural resources and pollution. As a resource,
wood is both locally available and renewable. When you compare
fighting wars over dwindling oil reserves to taking a chainsaw
into your back yard, wood seems the clear winner. To my mind,
if (and this is a big if) the wood is harvested in a sustainable
fashion, then burning wood is a smart choice from the point of
view of natural resource management.
That leaves the question of pollution. Is wood a clean-burning
fuel? The answer depends on how you burn it. To understand what
I mean, we need a quick science lesson. (Full disclosure: I am
not a combustion scientist, nor have I played one on TV.)
Combustion, or “burning,” is the chemical reaction
between a heated substance (fuel) and oxygen. In the case of wood,
there are three stages of combustion. In the first stage, wood
heats up to the point that interior moisture turns to steam. This
process actually consumes heat, so we’re no closer to warming
our feet at this point. With the water gone, though, the wood
can get hotter and begin to vaporize, releasing gases, or “smoke”
to us laypeople. If the temperature is hot enough, this smoke
will burn, releasing heat in the process. After the gases have
been released, what’s left is called “char,”
basically a pile of almost pure carbon. In the presence of enough
heat and oxygen, this carbon will combine with oxygen to produce
carbon dioxide and release more heat.
Carbon dioxide?! Isn’t that a greenhouse gas that contributes
to global warming? Yes. The fact is that all types of combustion
(whether coal, oil, gas, etc.) produce carbon dioxide. However,
there is a difference. Trees take in carbon dioxide as they grow.
When they die, fall, and decompose in the forest, they expel this
carbon dioxide. If you burn wood, that same carbon dioxide is
released, so theoretically there’s no difference in terms
of global warming between letting wood decay and burning it. (The
reality is, as usual, a bit more complicated, but, remember I’m
no combustion scientist.) On the other hand, CO2 released from
burning petroleum is CO2 that plants took in millions of years
ago and has been sequestered all that time in the ground. Therefore,
burning petroleum brings additional CO2 into the picture, and
consequently contributes to human-induced global warming.
If we accept this carbon dioxide argument, then how clean wood
burns and how much of its potential energy is converted to heat
is simply a function of how completely it combusts. If smoke floats
away without combusting, the result is creosote and a bunch of
nasty particulates that can pollute indoor and outdoor air. If
the “char” doesn’t completely combust, the result
is by-product carbon monoxide, which as we all know is a poisonous
gas. To avoid these environmental pitfalls, we need to (A) create
enough heat and (B) contain the fuel.
Wet wood is the enemy of creating heat. A lot of energy is wasted
burning off water that keeps temperatures low and allows smoke
to escape without burning. The first step, then, regardless of
stove type, is to use well-seasoned (dry) wood. Next, we need
enough oxygen. Campfires burn well because they have access to
plenty of oxygen. The problem is that the fire is on the bottom
while vaporizing gases quickly rise away from the flames; therefore,
a lot of fuel floats away unburned. We need to contain those gases
in a heated environment so that they ignite after they rise. Next,
after the gases have burnt off, we need to keep burning the char
hot enough to make sure minimal carbon monoxide is created. Finally,
we have to find a way to store most of the heat off of this now
incredibly hot, efficiently burning fire. If not, we’ll
quickly overheat our house.
Since we are geniuses, humans have created stove designs that
solve these problems. In my opinion, the best of these are generically
called “masonry wood heaters.” Though there are a
number of variations, the basic idea is to burn wood hot and fast
in a stove made of dense masonry materials (brick and stone) that
then can absorb the heat and slowly release it into the house
over many hours.
My favorite design is the “contraflow heater.” In
this stove, wood is stacked log cabin style in a tall firebox
made of firebrick with ample air intake, basically creating an
enclosed campfire. As smoke rises off the fire, it’s confined
and therefore compressed in a secondary combustion chamber where
it ignites. Hot air from this combustion leaves the chamber at
both ends and then travels back down the sides of the stove in
channels created by another layer of brick that surrounds the
stove. The air then enters the bottom of the chimney, and moves
out of the house. The brick soaks up much of the heat from the
air as it travels up and then back down through the stove. Meanwhile,
back in the firebox, the char continues to combust in an environment
of ample air and heat. After a couple of hours when combustion
is complete, the stove damper and air intake is closed to prevent
air movement out of the chimney and the stove then slowly radiates
its stored heat into the house for up to 24 hours. The result
is an extremely efficient burn with very low particulates and
a comfortable, even radiant heat.
As with all things, there are downsides. For one, masonry heaters
are expensive. They also require a lifestyle adjustment over conventional
heating sources. They heat up slowly, so you have to plan ahead
if the stove has cooled down. In other words, no cranking up the
thermostat when you get home from work.
Luckily, other wood stove technologies approximate the advantages
of a masonry heater. New metal stoves have advanced catalytic
converters and ingenious air intake strategies that have greatly
increased their efficiency and reduced particulate emissions.
Some metal stoves incorporate soapstone or other mass to allow
for some amount of heat storage.
On the other hand, as I said earlier, there’s a bad way
to burn wood. Metal stoves that are too large for the space or
poorly designed require that you starve the fire to prevent overheating.
Smoldering a log in an old, damped down cast iron stove creates
massive amounts of particulates and only turns about 25 percent
of the wood into useful heat, compared to 75 percent or more for
a masonry stove. A roaring fire in an old-school fireplace is
even worse, turning an estimated zero percent (yes, you read that
right!) to 15 percent of the wood fuel into useful heat. If you’ve
got an old metal stove, either modify it to include an air-to-air
heat exchanger (here’s a link to show you how: http://www.aprovecho.org),
or get rid of it. If you’re buying a metal wood stove, make
sure that it is EPA approved (labeled EPA II).
To my mind, then, wood burning is a sensible heating approach
if you live in a forest or have another readily available, sustainably
harvested source and you make sure that you’re really burning
the wood and not just turning it into gas with some by-product
heat.
Clarke Snell is the author of two books on
alternatives to conventional construction, The Good House Book
and Building Green, and is a regular columnist for New Life Journal
as well as a member of the NLJ Green Home Experts Board. He administers
Think Green Building, LLC (http://www.thinkgreenbuilding.com),
a consulting and design network that offers land assessments and
design consultations on green renovations and new construction.
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